The summer tourist season is over and, once again, it's become possible to wander freely at Seattle's Pike Place Market. This special spot feels like a community, no matter what the season. It's just that during the slower shoulder months, there's more of an opportunity to visit with the vendors, the growers, the fishmongers, butchers and sausage makers who give the Market such a unique flavor.
I met up with Seattle-based food writer and cookbook author Jess Thomson earlier this week for a quick tour of some of her favorite haunts. She did a terrific job of fleshing out this collection of shops and stores and stalls in her book, Pike Place Market Recipes: 130 Delicious Ways to Bring Home Seattle's Famous Market, beautifully photographed by Clare Barboza.Her mission, she said, was to pay homage to the incredible ingredients available, but also to riff on some classic dishes prepared in timeless cafes and restaurants. Like adding kale and squash to hot and sour soup. Brilliant!
Among her must-visit venues is Bavarian Meats, where the ladies behind the counter speak German and offer samples. Jess picked up a smoked ham hock to make a batch of green pea soup, seasoned with a little cardamom. "They gave me the recipe, but didn't want to write it down," she said. "It was kind of like the way your grandma might share a secret recipe."
She had a distinctly different experience with the big cheese at Uli's Famous Sausage: "He told me he would show me how to make the recipes and then show me how to eat them." (Shown here with the author, Uli Lengenbergtook a break from his breakfast of fried chicken gizzards from a neighborhing stall.)
We took a turn through Pear, a boutique-y grocery store/deli, where Jess praised the selection of locally produced gourmet goodies and the ample options of large bottles of interesting beer. "I don't like opening multiple bottles for a recipe," she said.
Jess was drawn into Le Panier Bakery by that intoxicating aroma of sugar, flour and butter, pointing to cookies she adores, and then stopped to check out the giant rolls at Cinnamon Works. "That's the smell of the Market in the morning," she said.
We breezed by Moon Valley Honey and Holmquist Hazelnuts -- "During my research, I kept coming back to them," she said.
There were quick stops at DeLaurenti to look for pitted Castelvetrano olives and a check on Daily Dozen Doughnuts, which recently expanded and is now making petite pies, too. Just a few steps from that wildly popular stand, Jess pointed out her go-to Market butchers, Don & Joe's. "When I asked for a hanging tender, they wanted to know if I was the daughter of a butcher," she said.
It was a fun visit, though we hit a fraction of the spots she wrote about. That would be a two-day proposition. In the meantime, here's what's going on my stove this weekend:
Spanish Chorizo and Chickpea StewFromPike Place Market Recipes: 130 Delicious Ways to Bring Home Seattle's Famous Market by Jess Thomsen.
Made with chorizo from Ulis Famous Sausage, in the MarketsMain Arcade, this easy stew has hints of Spain. Look for pimenton de la vera, or smoked Spanish paprika, in the spice aisle of alarge supermarket, in a red box. Some chorizos are spicier than others; pickone that matches your hankering for heat.
1 pound (about 4 links) chorizo, such as Ulis FamousSausages, casings removed
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch half moons
1/2 cup dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/2 teaspoon pimentn de la vera (smoked Spanish paprika)
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained
4 cups Homemade Chicken Stock or store-boughtchicken broth
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped parsley (optional)
Instructions: Heat a large, heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat. Whenhot, crumble the chorizo into the pan and cook, stirring once or twice, untilbrowned through, about 6 to 8 minutes. Break the sausage up into smallbite-size pieces, then transfer it to a paper towel-lined plate. Set aside.
Add the olive oil to the pan, then the onion. Saut forabout 5 minutes, or until the onion begins to soften. Add the garlic andcarrots, stir, then add the wine and bring it to a simmer, using a wooden spoonto scrape the brown bits off the bottom of the pan. Simmer until no liquidremains, stirring occasionally.
Season the vegetables with salt and pepper, then stir in thepimentn and tomato paste. Add thechickpeas, stock, and reserved chorizo, and bring to a simmer. Cook the stew about20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in the vinegar and parsley, season totaste, and serve hot.
*Stew can be made 2 to 3 days ahead and reheated beforeserving.
-- Leslie Kelly
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