Monday, October 29, 2012

Savoring "Salty Snacks"

Nims_Salty SnacksHave you ever thought about whether you have a sweet tooth or a salty tooth?

Cynthia Nims, Seattle-based cookbook author and food, beverage, and travel writer falls squarely on the salty side.

"Any time salt and savory flavorings meet something that's crisp and stackable, I'm happy," Nims notes. "Tortilla chips, nuts, popcorn, crackers, and the most beloved of all, potato chips."

Nims savors the salty side so much that her 13th book is entitled, "Salty Snacks: Make Your Own Chips, Crisps, Crackers, Pretzels, Dips, and Other Savory Bites."

This 162-page paperback tome is done in an inviting square format with lovely photos. Chock full of 75 recipes with informative headnotes, it also includes Salt Notes, Salty Holidays (who knew there is a National Cheese Doodle Day?!?!), and Tools and Techniques for making salty snacks.

You can tell that Nims really loved researching, developing, and testing the recipes in her book. They are smart, clever, and, more often than not, easy to prepare.

I was drawn to many of them, but especially the Salted Popcorn Meringues (with a sidebar on how best to grind the popcorn), Cornbread-Chili "Biscotti" (a savory and softer version of the traditional Italian cookie), and Mustard Soft Pretzels (with mustard baked right into the pretzel).

Don't miss the entire chapter devoted to dips and spreads to pair with your savory snacks. Who wouldn't love the aforementioned Cornbread-Chili "Biscotti" paired with Black Bean Dip? Or Feta-Lemon Spread with lemon-y Olive Focaccia bread?

Toasted Walnuts with Tart Cherries and Rosemary, a savory take on the ubiquitous "candied walnuts" we find sprinkled atop simple green salads nowadays, contains only six ingredients, goes together in a flash, and can be stored for up to five days.

It 's not only lovely to eat out of hand as an easy holiday (or anytime) nosh, but, when finely chopped, would make a terrific topping for grilled salmon or brussels sprouts.

ToastedwalnutsaldenteToasted Walnuts with Tart Cherries and Rosemary

Makes about 3 cups

21/2 cups walnut halves

2tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2tablespoons finely minced fresh rosemary

1teaspoon kosher salt or flaky or coarse sea salt

1/2teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3/4cup dried tart cherries

1. Preheat the oven to 350F.

2. Put the walnuts in a medium bowl and drizzle the butter over, tossing well to evenly coat the nuts. Add the rosemary, salt, and pepper and toss well to evenly mix.

3. Spread the nuts out on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until the nuts smell toasty and are just lightly browned, 12 to 14 minutes, stirring a few times to ensure even cooking.

4. Transfer the nuts to a bowl (it can be the same one they were first mixed in), add the dried cherries, and toss to mix. Let cool, then transfer to a serving bowl or store in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Reprinted with permission from Salty Snacks: Make Your Own Chips, Crisps, Crackers, Pretzels, Dips, and Other Savory Bites by Cynthia Nims, copyright 2012. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group.
Photo Credit: Jennifer Martin.

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Hurricane Sandy Watch: Be Prepared

Eckert-7294_980x551Like millions of Americans, I am absolutely riveted to the coverage of Hurricane Sandy, glued to The Weather Channel's nonstop reporting. It's staggering to think of how many people will be affected by this natural disaster that's been called The Storm of the Century.

Prolonged power outages are a given, and residents along the East Coast have spent much of the weekend stocking up on supplies. Tens of millions of people will be affected.

Everytime an event like this happens, there's the well-intentioned vow many of us take. Yes, we know we really should put together a disaster preparedness kit so if you're in harm's way you can "shelter in place." But, then the storm passes and life goes on.

Still, maybe it doesn't have to be such a chore to assemble some supplies. There are lots of options for pre-assembled kits, and it really wouldn't be a big hassle if you put together some non-perishable foods while doing routine shopping. My husband has his camping supplies, but they're scattered here and there in the garage. I'd feel a lot better if we had the water filter, head lamps and cook stove all together and I'm going to volunteer to make that happen.

Unfortunately, it's too late to prepare for Sandy, but here's a link to the guide on getting ready for disasters to come.

-- Leslie Kelly


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Happy Thanksgiving: Is That A Turkey On Your Head?

41BC6AGz2cL._Well, I love dressing up as much as the next Elvis impersonator... I mean, "Tribute Artist"... so, I just might have to keep the Halloween spirit going by wearing this silly hat on Turkey Day.

It'll be kind of ironic, though, because I've decided ham will be on the menu. I bought a half a hog this fall and my freezer's bursting with pork. So. Very. THANKFUL.

When my nephew heard that smoky ham was going to stand in for the more traditional turkey, he didn't miss a beat before asking -- via Instant Messaging on Facebook, naturally -- "will you still make dressing?"

Of course! And sweet potatoes and tarted up green bean casserole, even cranberry chutney. All the usual suspects on the side. I'll be sure and don my new roasted turkey hat for the photos of our Thanksgiving table!

-- Leslie Kelly


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Friday, October 26, 2012

Celebrate National Pumpkin Day!

Dorie Bundt
Today is National Pumpkin Day! What are you doing to celebrate this fall specialty? Admittedly, this wasn't on my list to celebrate today, but I thought it would be fun to feature another fabulous pumpkin bundt that I baked this week. The All-in-One Holiday Bundt recipe was created by Dorie Greenspan and is in her book, Baking From My Home to Yours. (The recipe can also be found here.)

The recipe is a fabulous combination of pumpkin, apples, cranberries, and pecans all of which is laced together with a delicious mixture of warming fall spices such as ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon. My version baked beautifully and when it came time to guild the lily I opted to make my own cream cheese glaze. The glaze draped the cake beautifully. Toasted pecans added a final touch. I didn't actually get a slice of this bundt, because I packed thecakeinto my trusty Nordic Ware Bundtkeeper and passed it off to my mother in law who needed a little treat for tea time this week.

I'm thinking that today might be a great day to bake one for myself...I do have more Libby'spumpkin puree on deck...

Photo by Melissa A. Trainer

--Melissa A. Trainer


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Mirliton Festival in New Orleans? Let's Go!

Imgres-6You've still got a little time to book a trip to the greatest food city in the universe for next weekend's celebration of the mirliton!

What's that? You've never heard of this pear-shaped veggie that also acts a little like a fruit? That's probably because it's called other names in other parts of the country: chayote or cactus pear are a couple also-known-as monikers that hang on this strange-looking beast.

But the folks in the Bywater neighborhood of New Orleans will tell you there's no better mirliton than one that grows in their yards. That's why for the past 23 years, they've celebrated this feat by feeding folks who wanted to come on by the Bywater. Oh, and because it's New Orleans, there's also plenty of music and booze, too.

This might not be as well known as the over-the-top Mardi Gras season festivals and parades and all-around shenanigans, but it sure does sound like a lot of fun.

To get the full skinny on the mirliton, check out a presentation on the Southern Foodways Alliance Okracasts on iTunes. Click on the Symposium lineup from 2011 and look for Sara Roahen's entertaining talk called The Mirliton Gets Its Due. You can download the discussion for free. A plane ticket to NOLA? Well, that's going to run you some dough. But, heck yes, it's so worth it!

-- Leslie Kelly


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Thursday, October 25, 2012

Bruce Aidell's Great Meat Cookbook Is Just That

Ref=sib_dp_ptWhen you get a new cookbook, how do you decide what recipe to tackle first?

For me, it's often about the drool-inducing photos. Yup, I'm a sucker for gorgeous images of foods that look seared, caramelized, spiced-just-right and yet juicy. That criteria fits most of the pics in the new Great Meat Cookbook by one of the world's authorities on the subject, Bruce Aidells.

Bruce wrote his first encycolpedic, yet entertainly approachable The Complete Meat Cookbook more than 16 years ago, and much has happened in the meat world since then. He told a group of fans at a special meat-centric dinner at Dahlia Lounge in Seattle recently that the revolution in sustainable meat movement was among the primary reasons he decided to update his original work.

"The book will help you understand the difference between 'natural' and 'grass-fed' beef, and offer advice on how best to cook them," he said.

A part-time vegetarian sitting at my table confessed that she had starting eating more meat since discovering his first book because its many tips on how to properly cook various cuts really worked. There's a hearty endorsement!

So, when I got home, I flipped through all 600 pages and then found myself drawn back to a dish that sounded perfect for an autumnal meal: Pork Stew with Hard Cider. Shocker, there wasn't even a photo. This braise isn't exactly photogenic, but boy, was it delicious!

I modified it just a bit so it could simmer in my new Crock-Pot, which made the kitchen smell incredible. I also skipped the potatoes and served it over polenta. Even my polenta-skeptical hubby enjoyed the pairing.

PORK STEW WITH HARD CIDER, BABY ONIONS AND POTATOES
From The Great Meat Cookbook by Bruce Aidells with Anne-Marie Ramo

1/4 pound bacon
3 pounds boneless Boston butt or boneless country-style ribs, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 2-inch cubes
salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1/2 cup finely chopped peeled parsnips
2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
1/2 cup Calvados or brandy, optional
1 1/2 cups hard cider, still or sparkling
2 cups homemade pork stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
30 small boiling onions, trimmed and peeled (or use frozen)
1 1/2 pounds small red potatoes (about 2 inches wide), scrubbed and cut in half
2 semitart apples such as Granny Smith or Jonathan, peeled, cored and cut into 1-inch dice
1 tablespoon coarse-grain mustard

Heat a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the bacon and fry until lightly brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving about 3 tablespoons of fat in the pot.

Season the pork with salt and pepper and place in the pot. Increase the heat to medium-high and brown the pork on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and seat aside.

Reduce the heat to medium, add the shallots and parsnips and cook, covered for 5 minutes, stirring from time to time. Stir in the sage and cook for 1 minute more. Add the Calvados (if using) and reduce until almost evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the cider, stock and reserved bacon and pork. and scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook for 40 minutes.

Add the onionsand potatoes and cook for 10 minutes more. Add the apples and cook for an additional 10 minutes, or until the potatoes and pork are fork-tender. Strain the solids from the liquid and reserve.

Return the liquid to the pot and skim off the fat from the surface. Whisk in the mustard, bring to a boil and cook until just thickened and syrupy, about 10 minutes. Return the solids to the pot and heat for 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve in shallow soup bowls.

Serves 6.

-- Leslie Kelly


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Secrets to Skillet Apple Brown Betty

No doubt the creation of Colonial forebears reluctant to let anything go to waste, apple brown betty is a simple baked fruit dessert traditionally made with apples and leftover bread. Recipes abound in both old and new American cookbooks, but the dish rarely makes it off the page and into the kitchen. Thats because some versions are just unpalatable, with apples that range from dry to mushy to applesauce.

Soggy and mushy just doesnt cut it in the test kitchen. Caramelizing a blend of Granny Smith and Golden Delicious apples gave our version the best flavor, and adding cider to the pan softened them and made the dessert more moistbut not wet. Finally, sprinkling some of the toasted crumbs into the mixture to thicken the juices, while reserving the rest for sprinkling on just before serving, gave this betty one tasty makeover.

BUILDING A SKILLET BROWN BETTY

1. Cook the bread crumb mixture until the crumbs are deep golden brown. Cool the mixture on a paper towel-lined plate.

2. Melt the butter in the empty skillet and cook the apples and the sugar mixture (in two batches) until golden brown.

3. Return all the apples to the pan. Add the cider and cook until lightly thickened.

4. Stir in some bread crumbs to thicken the mixture. Flatten the apple mixture with a spoon and sprinkle with the remaining crumbs.

Want to try for yourself? Check out our Skillet Apple Brown Betty recipe free through November 1st.


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